Building a deck over a driveway on a basement house with a garage door that is positioned beneath it presents some problems not associated with ordinary decks. The most obvious problem is spacing the posts far enough apart so you can drive between them. By spacing these posts further apart additional load is placed on them. This creates a need for a larger post and a larger footing poured around them.

How to Span a Deck Over a Driveway

The easiest way to span across a driveway with a deck is to orient the flooring boards so they are perpendicular to the house. This aligns the floor joists parallel to the house. In other words, you will be spanning the driveway with the floor joists instead of a beam supporting the load of floor joists. Not only will the beams be smaller, the flooring boards will not have any joints as long as the deck is less than 16′ wide. The following table is based on the 2012 IRC span requirements for joists made from number 2 southern pine.

Since the size of beams on a deck, or the floor joist spans for that matter,are not generally inspected, the spans in these tables are for the inside of a home with the closest loads.

If for whatever reason the flooring boards must be oriented parallel to the house, then a beam will have to used. The wider the deck is from the house and the wider the driveway beneath it is, the stronger the beam will have to be. These 2012 IRC spans for a header in an interior wall supporting the weight of a single floor with no walls or roof are as follows

Posts and Footings

If the deck is oriented in the fashion with the joists spanning the driveway instead of a beam, then the post will be no different than the posts on any other elevated deck. This also applies to the footings. As rule of thumb, use 6 x 6 treated pine for the post as long as they are no more than 14′ out of the ground. An 18″ diameter post hole that is 36″ deep should hold the load fine for the footings. Click here for the post hole volume calculator.

Once again, it is different story if the deck is oriented with a beam spanning the driveway. The longer the beam, the more of a load will need to be transferred to the soil. This can mean larger posts and larger footings. It may be necessary to consult an architect, engineer, or your local building inspector for advice on this in your area.

The placement of the posts may not be as cut and dried as lining them up with the edges of the garage door. It may be advisable to actually drive through the garage door a couple times and note the path of the wheels. There may not be enough room to line up whatever will be travelling beneath the deck without some adjustments to the placements of the posts.

Brace the posts on a pole barn for wind resistance with steel cables, wall sheathing, or wooden X braces. This is necessary to keep the posts from swaying. Once bracing has been installed, the posts are locked into position. They need to be temporarily braced with two braces (one on each axis) to hold the post plumb.

The closer to the top, and the closer to the bottom a brace can be positioned, the more it will hold. Most of the time, it is just not possible to go from the top to the bottom simply because of clearance issues. Even a very short brace is better than no brace. If your building is subject to a building inspection, then consult with your local inspector to find out the requirements of the building code.

Posts should always be set in the ground with concrete poured around them. The larger the diameter and the deeper the hole, the more it will hold. This is important for open sided buildings, that have very short braces, such as pavilions.

X Brace the Posts with Wood

Wooden X braces are often crafted from the same material as the posts they will be bracing. For example, if the posts are 6×6, then the bracing can be made from 6×6.

Remember that using nails for this application is asking for trouble. The constant flexing of the post will eventually work the nails loose. Always use lag bolts or carriage bolts to firmly attach wooden braces.

Since a solid brace like this is rigid by nature, it will hold both under compression and tension. This means that one brace of this type will hold an entire wall. However, I recommend using as many braces as practical.

Steel Cable Bracing

Steel cables work well for applications where wooden X braces would be just too long, They work much like guy lines holding a tent or a tower.

Use 5/16″cable for a minimum. Clips make the fabrication of loops a snap. Cables can be prefabbed on the ground and tightened by using an extra long eye bolt. This technique is much cheaper than using turnbuckles.

Other Forms of Bracing

Although metal siding is not recognized by building officials for being a wall brace, it will hold a wall almost as good as 7/16″ osb on a residential framing application. Other forms of siding, including board and batten, hold walls pretty good as well, but are frowned upon by building inspectors. They look at it the way as they would if you are using roofing metal for siding. The thing about it is, if the wall is covered with siding, then there is enough room behind it for bracing.

Some building designs incorporate no apparent bracing of any kind. Trust me, there is something bracing the posts.

Learn how the pros efficiently run metal siding on a big pole barn with these easy DIY instructions. Follow the crew at Scott’s Framing as they run metal siding.

Metal Sides on a Pole Barn

This project involves 26 gauge painted steel rolled with 5 V’s. This is the exact same steel used on roofs. The construction details are nearly identical. The panels can be ordered to any length. Depending on the supplier, the panels can typically be cut to the nearest 1/2″ Most all suppliers will cut it to the nearest foot. Since we have to re-cut the siding for the shape of the gable, it matters little to us. The main thing is that the metal is long enough. Another thing to consider is that the longer the metal is, the harder  it is to handle, and the more likely the fastening screws will be worked loose from expansion.

Follow these basic rules for a quality job:

• The big end laps the little end.
• Screw in every flat and in every girt.
• Use at least 1/4″ x 1″ hex head screws with rubber washers.
• Make sure each piece is locked in the same at the top as it the bottom.
• Even though you may be certain of the fit of all the pieces, it is wise to check the layout by measuring the gain of the panels at the top and the bottom.
• Take nothing for granted. Thin metal will slice like a razor blade.

The following video follows the crew at Scott’s Framing as they install metal siding in the gable of a big pole barn.

The pitch of a roof is determined by the slope of the rafters in relation to the horizon. This angle is measured not in degrees, but in inches of rise per foot of run. The only tools needed to determine the pitch of any roof is a ladder, a torpedo level, a speed square, and a straightedge.

Measure the Pitch of a Roof

Use a ladder to get into a position somewhere above the bottom 16″ of the roof. Leaning it against a gutter and allowing it to extend up several feet is ideal. Place the straightedge on the shingles in a direction perpendicular to the gutter. Use the torpedo level to make a plumb mark on the straightedge. Measure the roof pitch with a speed square.

The pitch can also be measured if only a level mark can be made. This is the case on the fascia boards in gables where overhanging shingles prevent an accurate measurement with a speed square on the plumb mark. This time make a level mark with the torpedo level and measure the angle in degrees. Subtract that number from 90. Use the speed square to align the degree with the corresponding pitch.

For the most part, roofs are built on pitches based on whole numbers. There are other slopes however. These are known as bastard pitches. It is more difficult to measure a bastard pitch; it is better to calculate it with this calculator.

Translated to Math

Slopes concerning roofs are always measure based on the number of inches the roof rises in one foot of run. This is why the second number is always twelve. For example; a roof with a pitch of 8/12 rises eight inches vertically for every twelve inches it travels horizontally.

In math, the horizontal or “X” coordinate is always entered first. Then the vertical or “Y” coordinate follows it behind a comma. The same 8/12 pitch is represented “12,8” which is completely backwards from carpenter math.

What it Means

It is very important for construction professionals to realize what pitch roof they are dealing with. For framing, roofing, and siding contractors, this means workers will be walking on the slope of the roof. Practically anyone without a fear of heights can walk a roof rather easily up to a pitch of about a 7/12. More experienced and athletic workers can handle slightly steeper pitches. It is a good rule of thumb to make preparations for toe boards on anything steeper than an 8/12.

It is also much better for any of the construction professionals to know the exact pitch of the roof so they may more accurately make bids on their jobs, mark angles on framing members and siding, and estimate materials to a higher degree of accuracy.

Optical levels are the best tool of choice for leveling a building. Their great accuracy make them an essential tool for establishing grade on buildings and structures up to several hundred feet long.

Instructions

Choose a location as close as possible to where the grade will be shot.

• Set the tripod by mashing each leg into the ground as far as possible with your foot while maintaining as close to level a mounting surface as possible.
• Place the instrument atop the tripod and secure the center attaching screw.
• Using the adjusting screws, zero the bubble on the level. It helps to align the transit over the adjustment screws before fine tuning.
• Spin the transit 360º and note the position of the bubble. Make any necessary adjustments.

Once the level is setup, you are ready to establish level points with it. This is known as “shooting grade”. While setting up an optical level is a one person job, to use one it takes two people. One person reading the level and one person establishing the grade. The best way for this to go down starts by aligning the barrel of the level very close to where the grade will be shot. Next the instrument must be focused. Now it’s a simple matter of the shooter directing the assistant to move his point up or down until it is centered in the cross-hairs.

An example for using an optical level is for establishing level marks on the posts of a pole barn. This is rather easy once the level is setup properly. Then the shooter directs the assistant to their speed square up or down on the post until it is center of the cross-hairs. Then the assistant makes a mark along the edge of the square where the grade was shot. Once this done on all of the post, the marks can be used to determine where to saw the top of the posts so that the barn’s roof will be level.

Most other uses are about the same except that instead of using a speed square, the assistant will use a measuring pole or tape measure. The shooter will establish a common measurement and the assistant will make any adjustments necessary.

Always keep an eye on the bubble and make it remains zeroed. A disruption to the tripod can result in inaccuracies. If you notice the bubble not right then it may be hard to readjust it. It will probably wise to simply start over. It is of great importance to take very good care of the optical level. Never leave it setup any longer than necessary and always return it immediately to its case.

Digging post holes with a back hoe is a fast alternative for when the ground is simply to hard to go through by hand or with a low powered auger.

Digging Post Holes with a Back Hoe

The only problem with digging post holes with a back hoe is that the holes are going to require a larger volume of concrete to fill. To reduce this to a minimum a spotter is used to manually measure the positioning of each each initial bucket swipe. In this case the 2′ wide holes are 5′ long at the top and 2′ long at the bottom of a 4′ hole.

The holes will accommodate an 8 x 8 x 24′ treated pine post. It will serve as the foundation for a large equipment shed for a lucrative dairy operation in Middle Tennessee. The holes will be filled with 5000 psi. concrete reinforced with fiber.

The operator of the back hoe in this video is Vince Scott. He owns and participates in the operations of Scott’s Framing.

Learn how to use Hardie Plank for soffit on new cornice with this free and easy guide. Follows manufacturer’s recommended installation procedures for both vented and solid panels. The advantages for using fiber cement panels on the exterior of a house include

• rot resistant
• insect resistant
• already primed
• great aesthetics
• durable

Check the Framing

The whole process begins with a quality sub-structure. This includes a 2 x 4 against the wall, blocks every 16″, and a sub-fascia. It is important for it to be very straight and level. If there are imperfections in the framing, then it should be straightened up. Accomplish this by stretching a line from end to end on the outside edge of the sub-fascia. Make sure it is parallel with the wall. If it is 12″ wide one end, then it should be 12″ wide one the other. Whatever it takes to make the sub-fascia close to the line, do it.

How to Saw Hardie Plank Soffit

It is recommended by the manufacturer to use a special blade on a circular saw to cut the panels. I find that is it is just as good to use an old framing blade. It will last quite a while. Always use sawhorses set up with a cutting board; a 2 x 12 x 12′ works best but just about anything will work. The saw should be set to penetrate the soffit and into the cutting board about 1/4″. This helps to stabilize the saw and makes for straighter cuts. Always watch the blade and keep two hands on the saw.

The sawhorses should be at a location where the saw man can see the nailers. They should never be overstocked with material. It is important to keep them mobile. Remember to always handle Hardie Plank products on edge and to use the buddy system whenever possible. Do not drive any nails into the cutting board; it would quickly render a blade useless.

It is important to note that the dust created when sawing fiber cement panels is harmful and should not be inhaled. Set up the sawhorses outside. Use the wind to your advantage if possible. I find it pretty easy to simply hold my breath while making cross cuts. It is a different story when doing rips. It is advisable to use an approved breathing filter to avoid complications with breathing that could result from inhaling the dust created by sawing fiber cement panels with a circular saw. Never saw this type of material inside.

How to Nail

The best way to nail fiber cement soffit is to use a coil nailer such as the Bostich N66C. If  you prefer to hand drive the nails, then be prepared for a different nailing technique. It is much more difficult driving nails straight up. It would be advised not to attempt it unless you have plenty of nailing experience.

Other Notes

• Use solid in the gables and vented everywhere else; its that simple.
• Be sure to turn the perforations in vented pieces to the outside.
• Use a drill with a hole saw for any flood lights or other electrical openings.
• It works better to use a small piece of solid soffit where any light fixtures are going.
• Use MiraTec or other treated exterior trim to compliment the fiber cement soffit.

Learn how to safely replace a damaged 6 x 6 post on a large building such as a dairy shelter or barn with this step by step documentation of an actual job.

The dairy operation is called Black Jack Ridge Dairy Farm. They milk around 500 cows around the clock. There outfit is so extensive, we find ourselves frequently doing work for them. They accommodate us well when we come. We will not have to worry about cows in the way or any other hindrance. The only thing different from other construction scenarios most of the time is the pungent odor from the animal waste. We try our best to keep ourselves and our tools as clean as possible whenever we work here,

Scott’s Framing Replaces a Broken Post

The first thing we did is scope out the situation. A large tractor had collided with a corner post on big shelter used for keeping dairy cows in the shade. The post was a 6 x 6 red oak about 14′ tall. The base was in concrete that served not only as a footing, but as wall for the spillway flooding system that removes waste from the cows. There are about six shelters in a row with about seventy cows in each shelter. There is a feeding apparatus down the long end of each shelter. There is a 3/4″ PVC pipe attached to the side of the post. There is a 14/2 gauge wire that feeds a large fan. There are two large steel brackets that hold a steel cable fencing system. There is significant damage to the post. It is lucky to still be supporting the weight of the roof. It is important to note that any time a post is being replaced on any structure, it is to be automatically considered as load bearing. In other words, whatever this post supports will come crashing down in the event of a failure. We want to avoid any catastrophic events at all costs so we will take extra care to support the load before any other work is performed. There are other concerns which could that must be considered as well. The wire we will deal with is also inherently dangerous so we decided to just kill power to the sector. The PVC pipe is not dangerous, but we sure do not want to have to repair something that could get complicated; especially if it gets broken off smooth with the the concrete from which it is protruding. We used a mechanical railroad jack with a post on top of it to secure the load of the roof. The initial analysis revealed the roof had dropped about six inches before getting jammed. We got by with this simple prop because the load of the roof was low and the height of the post was not that much. Just remember that however slight the load is, it will fall quickly in the event of a failure and could end your life just as fast. So make sure its shored up well. Once the roof load is shored up to satisfaction, then it is safe to start removing the damaged post and other goods. We started by removing the fasteners that held the wire and the PVC pipe. We moved them out of the way as far as possible to reduce any chances of damage to them. Even though the post was not that tall (it was less than 12′), we elected to remove it in sections. I used a reciprocating saw to drop it in manageable sections about three feet long. Next came the much larger task of removing the gate and cable fencing hardware. This was a matter of loosening odd sized fasteners connected to all thread bolts and driving them out with whatever punches we could improvise. These bolts had washers and nuts on one side and protruded through a homemade bracket on the other side with another nut holding them fast. Once all of the hardware was removed, we decided to use a reciprocating saw to cut the post as close to is concrete footing as possible. In this case, it would have much more expensive for the owner of the dairy farm for us to have sawed the concrete and removed the rest of the post. Next we drilled a 5/8″ hole about four inches deep and drove in a piece of 3/4″ solid steel rod we sawed to 8″ with a portable band saw. It would have been nice if we had enough room for a 2 x 6 scab about five feet long to insure the connection between the two sections.

Next we made some careful adjustments to the jack and replaced the post. It was a little tricky getting it slide over the protruding steel rod. We nailed the post into the roof beam a the top and reattached the 45º brace.

Finally we drilled holes for the cable fastening hardware and bolted all of that back on. There were turnbuckles on the other end of the cables for tension; so we used them to tighten the cables back up. We fastened the PVC pipe and electric wire back to the new 6 x 6 post and cleaned up our mess.

Learn how to stud up a gable wall safely, efficiently, and in accordance with the 2012 International Residential Code using this fail safe method. These advanced framing techniques work whether the gable is being stick framed, box framed, or prefabricated.

Stud up a Gable End Wall

The first step for building any gable wall is to find the center of the rafter span. This is equivalent to a plumb mark directly below the center of the ridge. A word of caution however, do not plumb down from the ridge to get this mark. It is is too easy to get variations when trying to plumb something of any substantial length. Use rafter run measurements for more accuracy.

It is important to visualize how the ceiling joists will attach to the gable studs. There will be one of three scenarios for the the direction of the ceiling joists.

1. There will be no ceiling joists.
2. They will be adjacent to the gable wall.
3. They will be opposite to the gable wall.

If they are are adjacent, then it will be a simple matter of nailing the most adjacent joist directly to each of the gable studs. If they are opposite, then it is important to realize all lay out options. Ideally, the studs stack directly over the studs on the outside wall below. The ceiling joists should bee laid out accordingly. The ceiling joists should attach directly to one side or the other of the gable studs. There is generally no need of using a rim joist (band) for the ceiling joist to attach to. It is a waste of time and material.

No matter the direction of the ceiling joists or the building codes governing your area, it is a good idea to attach a wall plate to the bottom of the gable rafters. This will serve as the top plate of the wall. There is no need to notch the studs, or set the gable rafters inside of the wall. Both of these techniques waste material and labor.

It is also a good idea not to use 2 x 4 studs over 10′ tall. If the gable wall is taller than 10′, then use a standard double top plate to break up the wall. Brace these taller walls thoroughly with permanent 2 x 4’s on about a 30º. Place them every 4′ and use three nails in each end.

In applications where there are no ceiling joists, such as rooms with cathedral ceilings, the studs should go the entire length with no breaks. It is important to realize that they will be under more stress from lateral forces (wind) than vertical. Refer to Table 602.3(5) of the International Residential Code for determining stud sizes or just remember not to go over 10′ with a 2 x 4 or go over 16′ with a 2 x 6.

Lay out the bottom of the gable wall. Make sure to always work from the long point side of the studs. For applications requiring studs only, use one of these calculators to solve for the length of the studs.

• Gable Stud Calculator | From the Center
• Gable Stud Calculator | From The Short Stud

Use the center mark to lay out for any openings. On large walls with windows opening, attach a string from the center mark on the bottom plate to the center of the ridge beam. Use this as a reference to lay out everything. This is the only bulletproof method for laying out openings on large gable walls. remember that headers must follow the same guidelines as they do for any exterior wall. Use double cripples on anything 5′ or greater.

Use a circular saw set on the correct bevel to saw the studs. A speed square is a handy tool to determine the what degree to set the saw on. Use a minimum of three 3″ x .120″ in each end of the studs.