Learn how to erect complicated roof systems with rafters. This guide includes step by step approaches, and state of the art calculators for every scenario.

Rafter Raising

The first step is to take a direct measurement of the span. This is typically the distance from the outside of the wall to the outside of the wall. Complicated roof systems can have spans that are very difficult to determine and should only be attempted by experienced professionals. Be sure that the span is the same on  both ends, the bearing walls are straight, and are properly braced. If there is a ceiling, then it should be complete according to these specifications with all lateral braces nailed down properly. Scatter sheets of decking all over the joists for safer working conditions.

Use one of these rafter calculators to determine the rise, the run, the length of the rafter, and the height of the scaffold. Use the dimensions determined by the calculator to lay out a rafter pattern. Use the pattern to mark out three rafters and saw them. Prepare a ridge board and then set up a safe scaffold.

Stand two rafters on one end. Place a temporary 2 x 4 block in between the rafters. Pay special attention the the fit of the cuts. If there is a problem, then find it now. The block should the same length as the ridge board is wide. Nail on a 2 x 4 like collar tie right below the temporary block. Brace the rafters from the top down and plumb the gable. Take a measurement for a temporary prop to go from the bottom of the ridge to the top of a block across the ceiling joists. Be sure to have enough hands available for hanging the ridge.

Remove the block from between the rafters and slide in the ridge board from the top. Nail the ridge to the rafters and set the other end on the temporary prop. Do not forget to hold on to it until the third rafter is attached to the end of the ridge board. It should be breaking half way on the ridge. The skeleton is now stable.

Hip roofs require a slightly different approach than gable roofs. Use the run determined by the  hip roof rafter calculator to mark the center rafter on the short side. On both long walls, mark for the end common rafter by measuring from the short wall and marking the run (sets ahead). Do this on all four corners if applicable. The rest of the rafters towards the corners will be jack rafters towards the corners and the common rafters will be in between the marks.

From the center rafter on each end, lay for whatever center being used. Do the same back to each corner off each common mark. The common rafter layout does not matter which end stays right; the lay out will change regardless. Start with the common rafters on one end when starting the skeleton.

Massive Ridge Beams

Applications requiring massive ridge beams such as the 40′ monster below should only be attempted with the aid of a boom truck. The beams are far too heavy to handle by hand. A 2 x 12 x 24′ is about the maximum that two experienced framing carpenters can handle by man handling it.

Learn how to frame a staircase with winders for landings with these free DIY instructions. Examine the 2012 IRC requirements from start to finish. The codes are based on information taken from page 89 of the 2012 International Residential Code.

Room for the Staircase

The first step is to calculate the risers. Do this by using this Step Calculator to enter in the total rise. This is the vertical measurement from the top of the finished floor at the beginning level to the top of the finished floor on the ending level. The calculator will return the individual riser and the number of steps automatically.

Make an accurate layout on the floor based on the number of steps the calculator returns and the information in the following paragraph. The top step does not have to go flush with the ending level; it can drop down a step. The winders are the three steps that turn the direction of travel by 90º. Due to the nature of the code requirements that govern them, it is necessary to have a 45º flat spot that is 6″ long on the inside part of where the two walls meet. Without this, it is impossible to achieve satisfaction for the building codes. So if the walls have already been framed, then they must be altered. It is not that difficult and will only take about 30 minutes at the most.

One of the toughest challenges when you are framing a winding staircase is to make it fit while keeping headroom and satisfying other requirements of the floor plan. Often the blueprints are drawn with 9″ runs and 8′ walls. When the real application has to have 10″ runs minimum, or the walls have been raised, it can be next to impossible to make the stairs work without expanding the space for it. This can not interfere with any critical dimension such as the space for a toilet, or the size of a hall.

Build The Winding Stairs

Once the layout s satisfactory, find the height of each winder using the landing section of our calculator. The results are automatically fired, so record each one on a nearby framing member.

Build the bottom winder first. It should be as large as the footprint for all of the winders put together. Build a frame with 2 x 10’s just like it was a miniature floor system. Use AdvanTech for the decking. Be sure the top of the finished floor for each winder is in accordance with the individual riser generated by the calculator.

Build the set of steps connecting the bottom winder to the floor. Test the lay out of the stringer before nailing anything. Remember to make allowances for different flooring materials and backings. Typically this means taking off an extra 1/4″ of the the bottom of the stringer to allow the difference between 1″ treads. Whatever the case, it is the finished walking surface that will be tested.

Build the next two winders by ripping down 2 x 10’s  to a dimension that equals the individual risers minus 3/4″ (AdvanTech).  In other words, if the individual riser calculated is 7 1/2″, then rip the framing members for the next two winders down to 6 3/4″. Follow the layout made on the floor to precision.

Build the top set of steps connecting the top winder to the ending level. Just like the bottom set of steps, there is three stringers laid out from a common pattern after it has been tested to meet the riser and run requirements. If the finished treads will be hardwood, then use temporary ones tacked down just enough to hold them still.

Framing Codes for Stairs

The stairs must have a minimum finished width of 36″. This measurement is taken above the handrail and below the headroom. For our purposes, make sure there is a minimum of 37″ between the framed walls.

At no point can the headroom drop below 6′ 8″. This is a vertical measurement from a sloped line along the nose of the steps up to the ceiling. An exception allows a floor to project horizontally into the headroom a maximum of 4 1/2″, but I recommend never to do this unless it is absolutely necessary.

The winder treads have to maintain a minimum of 6″ at their narrowest point. They must also maintain 10″ run at the 12″ walk line measuring from the inside out.

Do’s and Don’ts

• Never trust a lay out without testing the stringer, the winders, and everything else.
• Use at least 3″ x .120″ nails.
• Do not glue temporary treads.
• Glue everything else with construction grade adhesive.
• Use pressure treated plates at the bottom the lowest stringers if they rest on concrete.
• Be sure to allow for drywall by attaching a 2 x 4 to the outside edge of the stringers.
• Use good quality lumber throughout the entire framing process.

Learn how to cut wood siding around a round louver with great speed and amazing precision. This technique for works for wood and Hardie plank siding.

Setting a Round Louver

The process is very simple; the real deal is tedious.

• Run the siding in the gable as normal.
• Plumb down from the center with a 4′ level; make a good mark.
• Find the vertical center of the louver.
• Place the louver against the siding in reverse.
• Establish a quality pencil mark around the perimeter of the louver.
• Saw the siding with an oscillating tool such as the Sonic Crafter.
• Test fit the louver in reverse in the hole in the siding.
• Tack up a series of triple 1 1/2″ blocks around the perimeter of the hole.
• Use the blocks to exactly position the louver and mark the rough opening.
• Mark an extra 1/4″ around the rough opening.
• Use a reciprocating saw with a bi-metal blade to saw the opening.
• Note: Do not saw through any member of a truss without proper approval.
• Set the louver in the openings and use a torpedo level to establish its position.
• Nail it in with the proper fasteners according to the job.
• Re-nail any siding as necessary on their ends.

Learn how to replace a wall with a micro laminated beam with these easy to follow DIY instructions. Build temporary walls to support the load above.

Wall Demolition Safety

Before any sledge hammers are drawn, it is important to know what the wall supports and what wires or pipes will have to be dealt with. Realize that  paint, insulation, and other building materials will create dust when removing them. Use a dust removal blower along with a breathing filter to keep your lungs clear. Completely remove the drywall or other wall covering exposing the studs and other framing members. Remove any wires or pipes.

Whatever the load, it must be properly supported. If the wall bears more than ceiling joists alone, then take extra precaution in shoring up the load. A fail here could be as bad as a cave-in deep inside of a mine tunnel. The best way to prevent this is with temporary walls. Leave enough room in between the walls to work. Use a reciprocating saw with a bi-metal blade to surgically remove the studs and wall plates. Take care not to harm the ceiling joists.

Installing the Beam

The new beam needs a proper post under each each to transfer the vertical load from above to below. Typically this is only a matter of adding double studs inside each wall directly below where the beam sits. If the beam will be dropped for the joist to sit on top, then use TABLE R502.5(1) of the IRC to find the appropriate number of jack studs and right sizing of the beam. If there are any concerns, then a good rule of thumb is to use double jack studs for any span over 4′ and let your lumber supplier engineer the beam.

This load transfer does not end at the bottom of the wall. It must continue on to the ground. Not all walls have enough beef under them to carry the additional load of a beam. If the bearing walls have double joists beneath them, then make them triples. If the walls are on top of girders, then they are fine. If there is nothing directly below the walls, then pour footings and build piers on top of them (use 6 x 6 treated pine).

Drop beams are much easier at this stage than flush beams. In order to fit a flush beam between the ceiling, they must be sawed. Do this by chalking lines along the bottom of the joists exactly where the beam goes. Add 1/8″ to make it easier to get it in. Use a torpedo level to make a plumb mark on each joist. Saw the joists. Test the gap and make any necessary adjustments until you are satisfied.

Laminated beams have a sufficient amount of weight to deal with.  Use this calculator to find out how much it does weigh. Be sure to have plenty of extra lifting power and a safe scaffold before you try to position the beam into place.

Once the beam reaches its final destination, permanently fasten down each end. Use a jack and a post if necessary to make each joist flush and attach it with an approved joist hanger. Once all of the joists are nailed in, then slowly and carefully remove the temporary walls.

Enjoy the open space you have created by replacing a wall with a laminated beam.

Learn how to run cypress siding with professional results using this easy to follow, do it yourself procedure. Learn important differences in the lay out technique.

Cypress Siding: An exterior wall covering made from tapered lumber logged  in swampy regions and fastened in a horizontal manner with each higher board lapping the one below it. It is relatively inexpensive, easy to work with, looks good, and has outstanding durability.

Prepare the Siding

Before the first board is nailed up, there are a number of steps that should be taken to reduce the overall difficulty for working with this type of wood siding. First of all, the lumber should be re- stacked. Cull out any boards with obvious defects. This can be quite a substantial percentage dealing with cypress. Be aware that although some boards may appear foul in nature, they may have at least some good in them.

Using a set of saw horses, apply a primer coat of quality exterior grade paint to as many pieces of lumber they will hold. Allow them to thoroughly dry and stack them again. If the paint is not completely dry, then there is a serious risk of the siding sticking together.

Lay Out Method for Cypress

Standard lay out procedures for most siding is much like  laying out lines for shingles. For example, 8″ siding with a 7″ exposure needs a line popped on the wall every 7″ from the top of the bottom board of siding all of the way up. Cypress however is not uniform enough along the top of the board to do this. There is but one way to keep a true lay out with this type of material; mark each end each new run  on a multiple of the exposure. In other words, if the siding is 5 1/2″ and has an exposure of 4″, then on each newly run row siding mark a multiple of 4″ and pop a line. This means that the siding must be completed one whole row at a time. After each row is finished, there must be a line popped by measuring from the bottom piece of siding a multiple of 4″. In other words, once each run of siding is nailed on, then there must be a mark made at each end of the horizontal run. Get this measurement from the bottom piece of siding every time. The sequence will look something like this: 4,8,12,16,20,24,28,32, and so on. This is very important; any attempt to follow a “scribed”  lay out line, or to measure the exposure off each run will result in disappointment.

Use vertical lines on the wall to represent the center of each stud. Be sure to nail each board into every stud. Use a minimum of double dipped galvanized 8d nails. Stainless steel ring shank nails are the best although they are expensive.

Sawing Cypress Siding

Use three saw horses set about 4′ apart to support the flimsy boards. Be sure to check each piece of siding and continue the culling process. Always square one end and pull the measurements from that. A miter saw works great for boards less than 4′ long. It is feasible to set up a quality miter saw with a home made extended table to accommodate the long boards. This works most efficiently with the aid of another. if no one else is available then it it may be preferable to use a circular saw. In any case, set both types of saws up and use them at your discretion. Always use accurate lay out marks on the siding with a fine point pencil. Never saw past the marks; use a hacksaw blade, sonic crafter, or a sharp knife to finish off the cuts. The precision in an application of this nature must be within 1/16″.

Meet Building Codes

Each piece off lap siding must be joined by a bead of caulk on the outside and a strip of flashing on the inside according to 2012 IRC page 394.

A rough opening too small for the window or door to fit presents a problem with a limited number of options to fix. Explore them and choose the best way. The options are: replace the window or door with one that will fit, remove the jack studs and make them smaller, or rebuild the opening.

What to do if the Rough Opening is too small

If the window can be replaced and still meet egress requirements, or the door downsized without any consequences, then this is the easiest way to fix the problem. Most of the time, this is not an option.

The easiest way to make the rough opening bigger is to remove the jack studs. According to The International Residential Code on page 151, it is possible to replace the jack studs with approved framing anchors for instances requiring only one jack stud. There is a maximum of 3″ to be gained by this.

There is only one way, from my perspective, to make a rough opening bigger, it’s sad, but it’s true; rebuild the opening. Start by removing the jack studs. A flat bar, hammer, sledge hammer, reciprocating saw, and some wedges will prove handy. The following instructions assume that the center must remain the same. If this is not critical, then do nothing to one of the jacks.

Use the flat bar or wedges to establish a small crack between the sheathing on the outside of the wall and jacks. Saw the fasteners with a reciprocating saw. Saw the nails at bottom of the jacks and the side of the header. Knock out the jacks hammering away and in from the center with a sledge hammer. You will encounter resistance from the nails in the sheathing above the header. Overcome this by hammering out out the sheathing while force is applied inwards on the jacks.

Saw the nails holding the header to the sheathing and to the upper cripples. Be careful not to let it fall. It really takes two people for this.

Clean up all nails with the reciprocating saw on the inside of the sheathing, the top wall plate, and anything else that might be in the way.

The jacks are reusable unless they are just damaged too bad. The header is too short and there is no hope for it here.

Re-install the jacks and then the new header. Nail back the sheathing and the rough opening is ready!

Jacking up a floor and leveling it is easy with these simple instructions. Make repairs to settling piers and weak joists to fix swagging floors and roof lines. The only tools required is a bottle jack, string, straight claw hammer, circular saw, and a light source. You will need some bagged concrete, concrete blocks, lumber, and several sixteen inch boards for supplies. The crawl space under a house can be a hazardous environment. Make sure you have a quality light source that is not going to burn down the house.There may be plumbing, electrical, or HVAC services to contend with. Stay away from them as much as possible. If there is a moisture control problem then it should be addressed first.

Jacking up a Floor and Leveling it

Identify the problem as load bearing or non-load bearing. If there is wall on top of the swagging area, then it is a load bearing problem. This means the beam beneath the wall is not of sufficient size to carry the load. If this is the case, then you may want to enlist the help of professionals. For the purpose of this page, the focus will remain on non-load bearing repairs.

The problem area will involve a set of floor joists that area spanned too far. The idea behind this procedure is simple; place a girder on top of piers below and perpendicular to the joists to hold them at a level position.

The girders can be no more than 12′ long each. If the room is wider, then use multiple girders. Establish a center and dig footings with a straight claw hammer 24″ x 24″ by 12″ deep. These footings should be no more than 7′ apart. Premix some bagged concrete and pour the footings full. Level the tops and allow the mix to set for at least two days. Build a girder from the outside footing to the outside footing. Place a jack on the inside edge of each outside footing. Block under each one until there is just enough room to fit the girder between the jacks and the joists. Slowly jack up the floor. Use a string to watch the floor come up. Keep an eye on the girder so that it does not get out of position and try to roll. Once the floor is at the right level, jack it up just a little bit higher. Stack 8 x 12 blocks two wide in a criss-cross pattern until they as close to the bottom of the girders as possible. Use 1 1/2″ blocks to close the gap. Finish off the piers by ripping shims to make the fit against the girders as tight as possible. Release the jacks. Move the jacks to any inside footings and repeat the procedure.

Learn how to build girders in new house construction according to the 2012 International Building Codes. Find out how to position them exactly, straighten them to perfection, and fasten their plies permanently.

Flush Beam or Drop Girder?

Drop girders are positioned in such a fashion so that the floor joist sit directly on top of them.  This is usually the same height as the pressure treated mud sill. Drop girders require a a slightly different set up in the foundation and the footing.  The foundation will need notches sawed or formed into it for the girders ends.  The piers will need to be built at a grade so the top of the pier will be a distance the same thickness as the girder below the bottom of the floor joists.  Drop girders are also the only practical way to repair a week floor system.

Flush beams are built in such a fashion so that the the of the girder ends up the same level as the top of the joists. This type of girder requires the beam be notched where it rests on the foundation wall. It also requires either a ledger strip or joist hangers to assist in the permanent fastening of the joists. Be aware, while we prefer ledger strips (and they approved by the 2012 International Building Codes), they are prohibited in some locations. Joist hangers are also a must for all flush beams in all engineered silent floor systems.

How to Position a Girder

It is pretty simple to take a set of blue prints and compare the beam placements with the locations of the load bearing walls. They should match exactly. Note that even slight changes in the positioning of the walls have to be reflected in the placements of the girders. Even though codes will allow a little bit of off positioning between the beam and the wall, we do no recommend it at all.

As far as building girders and having them end up straight, use a string. It is that simple. Do not try it any other way unless you are completely sure of your method.

Fastening Together a Girder

There is a next generation of fasteners known as TimberLok screws. They are code compliant and are unequaled in their fastening strength. They are also easy to drive home with a quality cordless impact driver. If you are dead set on using nails only, then use plenty of them; at least a column of four for a 2 x 12 every sixteen inches apart on each ply. All LVL beams over two ply must be bolted.